Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.
The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family utterly surprised.
“I am completely surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.
However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.
The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.
The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.
Lena is an environmental scientist and writer passionate about promoting sustainable practices through accessible, evidence-based content.